Moana Cruising

Moana is a 30-metre gaff-rigged phinisi schooner built at Tanah Beru in South Sulawesi across 2003 and 2004, entirely in teak and ironwood, and refitted since. She is 24 metres on deck with a 6.5-metre beam, 73 gross tons, and carries 270 square metres of sail. She is owner-operated by Stefan and Tanja Campo, and most of the crew has been aboard more than eight years, which is the sort of continuity that does not show up in a specification list but shows up everywhere else.

Five cabins, ten guests, eleven crew. Three cabins have double beds and two are twins, all below deck, all with en-suite bathroom, air conditioning and sprung mattresses. The trade is space rather than cabin grades: there is no suite, no balcony and no hierarchy, and instead a 90-square-metre main deck with an air-conditioned salon, a long outdoor dining table and a wide chill-out area at the bow. Blankets are set out for guests who would rather sleep on the open deck than in the cabin they paid for.

Trips are sold two ways, and the difference is only the diving. A Diving Trip includes all dives on the itinerary. A Cruising Trip includes everything else and no dive package, with individual dives payable on board, which suits snorkellers and occasional divers rather than making them buy tanks they will not use. Three guides work the boat so divers and snorkellers run separate programmes. There is a dedicated dive deck at the stern, a custom speedboat tender and stand-up paddleboards.

She works Komodo National Park almost exclusively, on five-night trips out of Labuan Bajo departing and returning at 11:00, with private charter available. The route covers Sebayur Kecil, Batu Bolong, Tatawa Besar, Castle Rock, Crystal Rock, The Cauldron, Golden Passage and Manta Point, with Gili Banta and Sangeang on the longer runs and land time at Padar, Rinca and the dragon walk. Full board runs to five meals a day with fresh juices, coffee and soft drinks included; the bar stocks Bintang, wine and spirits.